THIS STEERING RACK CAN FIX THESE CARS MODELS:
TOYOTA HILUX SURF GRN215,KDN215,RZN21*,TRN21*,VZN21 2000-2009
TOYOTA LAND CRUISER PRADO GRJ12*,KDJ12*,RZJ12*,TRJ12*,VZJ12*
TOYOTA LAND CRUISER PRADO GRJ12*,KDJ12
THIS IS RHD STEERING RACK FOR 5VZ ENGINE OF HILUX GRN215 TRN21
THIS IS RIGHT HAND STEERING RACK FOR 5L OF LANDCRUISER PRADO GRJ120
ALSO USE 1KD ,3RZ 5VZ ENGINE OF PRADO.
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We are professional in steering racks aftermarket sell, we find
there are only 7 prolems of steering racks
top 7 steering rack problems:
Steering fluid leak
Unresponsive steering
Steering wheel vibration
Clunking noise when turning
Tight steering wheel
Steering wheel not returning
Death wobble
Problem #1: Steering Fluid Leaks
Let’s start with the easiest steering rack problems to identify – a
steering fluid leak.
This steering rack problem is only exclusive to hydraulic power
steering racks because non-power assisted steering rack and
electric power steering racks do not use any power steering fluid.
So, how do you know if you have a steering fluid leak?
Well, if you find some oil stain in your car park, you know
something’s up! But hold your horses, the first thing that you have
to do, is to make sure that it is indeed steering fluid. There are
plenty of automotive fluid (engine oil, brake fluid, transmission
fluid, etc etc) in your car and maybe it’s not your steering fluid
that is leaking. Although yes, you still have a leak somewhere and
you need to get that fixed.
Anyway, the easiest way to know for sure, is to take a peek at your
steering fluid reservoir. Is it within the optimal fluid level as
specified by the car manufacturer? If it’s not within the “MIN” and
“MAX” level indicator on the reservoir, ask yourself this… “When
was the last time I top it up?” Steering fluid is not something
that you have to top up every other months. If it’s running low,
you can start to suspect that you have a steering fluid leak.
As a rule of thumb, if you constantly have to top up your steering
fluid every month or more frequent than that, you know have a leak
somewhere.
Now, huge emphasis on the word “somewhere”. Because a steering
fluid leak doesn’t automatically mean that you need a new steering
rack. The leak can be coming from many parts. The most common
steering fluid leaks will come from…
Steering rack
Steering pump
Rubber hose and tubings
To check for a leak, all you need is just a pair of good eyes and
know where to look. If you can find the source, you know what needs
to be fixed.
Let the car cool for at least an hour. It’s very important to avoid
burning yourself.
Check the floor and see if you can spot any fluid drips.
Open up the hood and see if you can spot any wet components.
Try to inspect the parts close to the wet components to see if it’s
leaking from the part itself, or dripping from above.
Otherwise, jack your car up. Place a rock at the rear wheel to
prevent it from rolling. Remember, safety first.
Bring a torchlight and crawl under the car.
Again, try to find any wet components.
You can also wear a glove and press onto the rubber hoses and see
if they are hard and flaky. Rubber lose their elasticity over time
and that could cause leaks. If they are, get it changed.
Problem #2: Unresponsive Steering
When you are driving on the road, try to feel if your car is
responding to your steering wheel. If you turn the steering wheel
(slightly), but your car still cruises straight ahead without
changing direction, you have what we call – an unresponsive
steering.
In Malaysia, we call it “free play”.
If you suspect you have this steering rack problem, try the
following steps to diagnose your steering rack.
Park your car in a safe place.
After that, make sure that your car wheels are straight. Do this by
returning your steering wheel to the original 12 o’clock position.
Switch on the ignition engine.
Make sure your handbrake is activated.
Then, you can rock your steering wheel back and forth between 10
and 2 o’clock position.
Try to feel whether your steering wheel. Does it feel too light at
certain spot?
Also, with your car stationary, I find it helpful to be looking at
your car wheels while rocking your steering wheel too. See if the
car wheels move when you turn your steering wheel.
Some people find it easier to diagnose when your car is moving. But
again, remember to prioritise safety.
First, get to a safe road to test it out. Ideally, the road is
straight, wide and has plenty of space.
After that, make sure that your car wheels are straight. Do this by
returning your steering wheel to the original 12 o’clock position.
Initiate into “D” gear and drive slowly.
You can then rock your steering wheel back and forth between 9 to 3
o’clock position.
Try to feel whether your steering wheel changes your car
trajectory.
If you have an unresponsive steering, the steering wheel will feel
very light. It is as if the steering wheel is disconnected from the
car. Also, your car will not (or barely) change direction.
This is annoying and dangerous to drive because you cannot make
proper changes to the car trajectory as you desire. An unresponsive
steering is usually a result of wear and tear on the steering rack.
It will require some special tools and technical know-how to
repair. Speak to a steering rack repair specialist near you if you
have this problem.
Problem #3: Steering Wheel Vibration
If you feel that your steering wheel is shaking, it could
potentially be a worn steering rack problem.
The vibration is especially noticeable when you are driving on
uneven roads, like on a construction road. You don’t have to speed
for the vibration to manifest itself, just regular driving speed
would do.
A quick tip.
You should feel most of the shake coming from the steering wheel
itself. Remember to pay very close attention when diagnosing this
because the road is also uneven, and it can cause the car to shake
as well. People will often confuse it between the two.
So what signs should you look for?
What we always try to look out for, is the severity of the shake.
Some vibration are just minor steering wheel shake that you can
barely feel, some are so strong that you almost have to grab the
steering wheel tightly so that it doesn’t move. Also, we try to
listen for any accompanying noise.
Problem #4: Clunking Noise when Turning
A clunking or knocking sound is another sign of a steering rack
problem.
The clunking noise will sound like someone knocking on your door
but from below your car – “kok!”. I guess it sounds a little creepy
when I put it that way, but I hope you get the idea! When you turn
your steering wheel, try to listen for this knocking or clunking
noise. It normally can be heard close to where your foot rest.
This is not to be confused by a rapid clicking noise caused by
drive shaft when you turn your car. The clunking noise should knock
once and then have pauses before another knock! On some cases, you
can hear it again when you return the steering wheel to the
original position. If you do, you can start to suspect that you
have a worn steering rack.
However, it is worth point out that diagnosing based on noise alone
can be a very tricky business. This is because there are so many
different type of noise and where they could come from, which
indicate a bad strut, mounting, and etc. It also depends on your
car model and the types of steering rack it uses.
If you also notice any of the symptoms above, it helps to make a
good guess whether your steering rack is faulty. This clunking
noise is a good indication of a worn steering rack. But, we do
recommend that you seek professional opinion before concluding the
diagnosis
Problem #5: Tight Steering Wheel
Power steering rack is meant to make steering easier and
comfortable. It should feel effortless when you steer your car even
though cars weighs over 1000 kilograms! If you have to wrestle to
turn the steering wheel, it is very likely that you are in a very
tight(pun intended) situation – like a steering rack problem.
A tight steering wheel failure mode can be found on both hydraulic
and electric power steering system. It’s worth point out that
steering rack may not be the culprit here. It could also be caused
by steering pumps, motor, electronics failure, and etc.
Here’s an interesting fact.
There are different type of tightness. Which means you may feel
different severity of tightness, and at different circumstances.
Just to name a few, the video above describes tightness only in one
direction; Some tightness can be felt on and off; Some tightness
feels a lot heavier than others.
Different type of steering wheel tightness could indicate failures
on different component. The sucker punch is that sometimes the
differences are small and it’s difficult to convey a feeling into
words. But, that’s exactly why we have steering rack specialist to
help you on this. Although you should still try to identify the
tightness and convey it to your local mechanic because it is always
helpful to hear the car owner’s input. You are the most familiar
with the car after-all!
Anyway, here’s how you can test for the stiffness.
First, switch on your car engine.
Let the engine idle for a minute to warm up.
Then, move the steering wheel from lock to lock position for 10
times to warm up the power steering system.
Feel the steering effort. Take a mental note of it.
Keep your handbrake on and your gear in “P”.
Raise the engine RPM to 3000 ~ 4000 rpm.
Move the steering wheel from lock to lock.
Feel the steering effort again. Take another mental note of it.
Well, the good news is that a tight steering will not stall the
wheel completely. You can still drive your car although it will
require a lot more effort. However, it can become dangerous
depending on how severe it is and how strong you are.
But either way, you should get it fixed as soon as possible. I do
recommend that you do not go on long distance drive until you get
it fixed because of something we call “steer fatigue”. Imagine
lifting and holding a cup of water, it is so easy! But try holding
it up for more than an hour, it gets very heavy even though it is
the exact same weight as before.
Fatigue accumulate exponentially over time.
Driving long distance is very tiring. Adding steer fatigue into the
equation is just a risky business. So again, get it changed before
making that trip down to Penang!
Problem #6: Steering Wheel Not Returning
Upon turning our steering wheel, it should return back to the
original 12 o’clock position.
Again, it can vary in severity. For example, some steering wheel
don’t return at all; Some will return, but only back to 9 or 3
o’clock position; Some returns, but very jaggedly and it doesn’t
feel smooth.
You will see this more in hydraulic power steering system. This
steering rack problem could be caused by a clogged up power
steering system, or maybe even a car mis-alignment issue. Based on
past experiences, you will be surprised to learn that control arm
could also be causing this issue (although rarely).
If you want to reproduce the symptom, you can try the following
steps:
First, get to a spacious road to test it out.
Start your engine.
Initiate into “D” gear and drive slowly, don’t accelerate.
Make sure that you have plenty of space to maneuver your car.
Turn your steering wheel.
Let go, but be ready to grab it again (remember that your steering
wheel does not return).
As you let go, notice how your steering wheel returns (if any).
Grab hold of your steering wheel and adjust your car trajectory.
Problem #7: Death Wobble
It’s either your steering wheel is possessed, or you have a serious
steering rack problem. Doesn’t matter possessed or not, I think
it’s smart that we DO NOT drive under this condition and call your
car mechanic immediately (not an exorcist).
This issue is more commonly found in electric power steering system
and would usually require a replacement instead of a repair.
Needlessly to say, it’s going to cost quite a bit.